OPINION REPORT 2：

Lemaire at the Top: Why Understated Design Is Becoming China’s New Style Creed

In the recently released 2024 Fashion Exchange Fashion IP 100 ranking list, Lemaire claimed the top spot for the first time, followed closely by Acne Studios and Maison Margiela. Since debuting on the list in early 2021, Lemaire has steadily climbed the rankings, becoming only the fourth fashion IP to lead the Fashion IP 100 since its inception six years ago. The transition from Supreme to Lemaire as No. 1 reflects a broader shift in China’s fashion landscape—from street culture worship to a more introspective pursuit of personal style.

According to McKinsey’s The State of Fashion 2025, evolving consumer values and economic pressure are driving more rational purchasing behaviors, with emotional resonance emerging as a key factor in buying decisions. NielsenIQ’s China Consumer Outlook 2025 also notes that Chinese consumers are increasingly cautious in spending, aiming to build a more sustainable, quality-driven lifestyle. In this context, "aesthetic durability brands" like Lemaire are gaining traction by addressing the dual demand for timeless quality and emotional connection. With a five-year retention rate of over 80%—nearly double the industry average—Lemaire’s high repurchase rates signal a broader consumer pivot away from logo-centric streetwear. (Supreme, for instance, was sold by parent company VF Corp at a 40% valuation cut; Off-White closed five stores in China; Ambush scaled back online operations.)

Lemaire’s rise is no coincidence—it offers a revealing lens into the shifting priorities of Chinese consumers. Is this the backlash against branding excess? A yearning for individuality in subtlety? Or a Gen Z-led redefinition of identity? Let’s unpack the forces behind this evolution.

Insight 1: The Triumph of Imperfection – Why Chinese Consumers Are Embracing “Flawed” Beauty

· Who is Lemaire? The Wabi-Sabi Revolutionary from Paris’ Left Bank

When Christophe Lemaire founded his eponymous label in Paris in 1991, inspired by “unfinished sculptures,” he likely didn’t foresee it becoming a secret code among the global intellectual class. His design career began with a quiet rebellion against perfectionism. At Yves Saint Laurent, he was criticized for leaving hand-stitching visible inside jackets—an affront to brand codes. Later, as womenswear creative director at Hermès, he cut raw hems into silk shirts and declared, “Perfection is the violence of consumerism.” This philosophy ultimately led him to walk away from a multimillion-dollar contract to focus on his own label, co-helmed with Sarah-Linh Tran. Tran’s Vietnamese heritage brought Zen philosophy into the brand’s DNA—what Vogue called “a marriage of French minimalism and Eastern introspection.”

· Precision-Crafted “Intentional Imperfection”

Now spanning 18 seasons, the Uniqlo U partnership has educated the public while preserving Lemaire’s mainline mystique. The diffusion line acts as both an accessible entry point and a brand-building engine. According to Fast Retailing’s FY2024 report, the collaboration helped push annual sales up 13.7% and operating profit by 32.2%, hitting record highs—proof of how thoughtful democratization can elevate both ends of the market.

· Addressing Stratified Consumption

As McKinsey notes, China’s slowing growth is polarizing consumption: the wealthy seek understatement as a badge of taste, while Gen Z hunts for affordable “quiet luxury” in thrift stores. Lemaire’s dual-pricing model—accessible U line and exclusive mainline—creates a laddered brand journey, from entry to aspiration. In China, the Uniqlo U series alone contributed to over 30% of Uniqlo’s revenue growth in 2024.

Insight 2: Democratizing Aesthetics – How the Uniqlo U Line Made Quiet Luxury Universal

· Material Innovation as Downmarket Disruption

In 2015, Lemaire partnered with Uniqlo to launch the U line. The series adopted the same triacetate fabric as the main line—30% more absorbent than silk and more wrinkle-resistant than linen—bringing "everyday elegance" to a mass audience. On Xiaohongshu, the hashtag “#UniqloU” has over 334 million views, with users sharing tips on how to achieve a luxury look with a 299 RMB shirt.

· Elevating the Main Line through Contrast

Now spanning 18 seasons, the Uniqlo U partnership has educated the public while preserving Lemaire’s mainline mystique. The diffusion line acts as both an accessible entry point and a brand-building engine. According to Fast Retailing’s FY2024 report, the collaboration helped push annual sales up 13.7% and operating profit by 32.2%, hitting record highs—proof of how thoughtful democratization can elevate both ends of the market.

· Addressing Stratified Consumption

As McKinsey notes, China’s slowing growth is polarizing consumption: the wealthy seek understatement as a badge of taste, while Gen Z hunts for affordable “quiet luxury” in thrift stores. Lemaire’s dual-pricing model—accessible U line and exclusive mainline—creates a laddered brand journey, from entry to aspiration. In China, the Uniqlo U series alone contributed to over 30% of Uniqlo’s revenue growth in 2024.

Insight 3: Why Lemaire Is the Blueprint for the Next Decade of Global Fashion

· Strategic Bet on Asia

Asia continues to lead luxury growth, with Japan forecasted to grow 8–12% and India by 7% in 2025. Lemaire, with just six global stores, has planted roots strategically: three in Paris, one in Seoul, one in Tokyo, and one in Chengdu. The Chengdu flagship—opened in 2024 and designed with bamboo accents, Wabi-sabi ceramics, and concrete textures—blurs the line between boutique and living space. The store’s soft launch generated 4 million RMB, and monthly sales now average 7 million RMB—a testament to its cultural resonance.

· A Global Return to Craft and Culture

From The Row’s artisanal rise to Brunello Cucinelli’s sustainable luxury model and LVMH’s recent stake in Sweden’s minimalist label Our Legacy, the industry is pivoting from flash to depth. As investors chase “new luxury,” Lemaire proves that long-term value lies in storytelling and craftsmanship.

· A Human-Centered Marketing Shift

Philip Kotler’s “H2H Marketing” principle—human-to-human—is manifest in Lemaire’s approach. The brand avoids influencer saturation, instead building emotional bonds with its audience. Store staff are hired based on alignment with brand philosophy; loyal customers are featured in documentaries exploring the link between clothing and daily life. Short films capture subtle, soulful moments—women walking under trees, lovers at a subway station—grounding French minimalism in Eastern everyday life. This sincerity has earned the brand over 861,000 social media followers, solidifying its calm strength amid trend volatility.

Insight 4: From Supreme to Lemaire – A New Era of Consumer Consciousness

· The Shift from Symbolism to Substance

Chinese consumers are reorienting from logo obsession to personal meaning. Google’s 2024 Search Trends show a shift in the term “aesthetic” from trend cues to lifestyle expression. Post-pandemic, style is less about being seen, more about being understood. TOTEME and COS both climbed LYST’s 2024 rankings, as minimal “old money” style gains popularity. According to Youthology’s China Consumer Trends 2025 report, 69.5% of Chinese consumers prefer brands that align with their personal values and lifestyle—brands must now serve as emotional mirrors, not just market messengers.

· The Data Behind Logo Fatigue

The streetwear era fed an anxiety to be noticed. Lemaire’s rise signals a shift toward “quality over quantity.” GroupM’s 2025 Consumer & Media Trends shows 75% of Chinese shoppers now approach purchases with a pre-defined brand shortlist and prefer buying less but better. On Xiaohongshu, #LemaireStyle discussions focus less on “looking expensive” and more on how garments age with the wearer. As Christophe Lemaire says, “Trends change every six months. Style doesn’t—if you know who you are.”

Insight 5: The Final Answer – In the Age of Algorithms, Focus Is the New Fame

· A Belief System, Not Just a Brand Strategy

Lemaire doesn’t chase trends—it defines them. Its philosophy of “time value” turns wear and tear into badges of intellect. The brand’s ascent on the 2024 Fashion IP 100 reflects not just taste, but a deeper reckoning with consumer fatigue: people are no longer paying for logos, but for emotion and endurance. “Keep it Simple, Stupid”—Christophe Lemaire’s embrace of the KISS principle—guides both design and impact. Great products, he argues, should be understood on instinct, whether by fashion lovers or everyday wearers. It’s a lesson that transcends fashion—one any brand seeking meaning and longevity can learn from.

Final Thoughts

The old playbook is obsolete. Only a return to essence can shape the future.

China’s growing reverence for understated design signals a maturing market—and offers a clear roadmap for brands: in an age of noise, focused restraint is the loudest declaration.

As labels like Lemaire craft aesthetics that transcend trend cycles, they provide more than product—they offer insight. For brands navigating China’s evolving market, long-term creative collaboration may no longer be optional. It’s how you co-author works of value—artifacts of time and spirit. This awakening marks not only a new chapter in Chinese fashion consumption but also a deeper, collective answer to the question: what does it mean to last?